When considering your front door decorating, think about how to invite spring into the entire space. Introducing natural elements, like grapevine balls, curly willow, dogwood branches, and pampas grass into your entryway décor is an easy way to evoke that spring feeling.
Start with a neutral base
When choosing your containers, stay within the colour palette of the exterior of your home. By using neutral tones for these foundational pieces, your eye will automatically be drawn to those elements that provide that “pop” of colour or items of intrigue that showcase the season. As an additional benefit, these neutral containers make it easy to switch up the interior elements to match the shifting seasons.
Layer it up:
Outdoor décor takes a note from fashion by introducing layering at your front doorway. To get this fashion-forward effect, start with a neutral coloured mat. Coir mats are a great option as they not only provide a neutral colour but the fibres are designed to absorb moisture which is perfect for those wet, muddy, spring days. The coir mat will provide an extra cushion while also adding interest with its textured border.
Now, it’s time to choose the design and colours of your focal mat. Before choosing, consider the other elements that you would like to add to your front entryway. For example, if you would like to add a pot of everlasting yellow forsythia choose a mat that would complement this flower choice. Spring mats come in a variety of patterns, colours, and designs, making it easy to add a bit of your own personality to your entryway.
Gather in Groups
One of the best ways to get that Pinterest design effect is to stay with a few key elements and pull them through your entire spring décor. The key to this design effect is to add features that create that warm, aesthetic appeal without being distracting. This means limiting the number of elements that you add to your space.
Pot groupings are a great way to seamlessly pull a few elements together. One of our favourite ways to do this is to use large scale natural baskets and then add a singular element into each one. For example, one basket could contain pussy willows, a second trailing everlasting greenery and the third everlasting tulips.
The Magic of Spring
The twinkling of fairy lights whether on a railing or encased in lanterns is a delightful way to invite spring into your home. Be playful and add lighted elements throughout your entry way. Railings, hanging basket hooks, and even trees all provide innovative platforms to add a bit of sparkle to your spring.
Door Décor
A conversation about entryway decorating isn’t complete without discussing your doorway. Your front door provides the perfect backdrop to hang your favourite spring décor. This year we are seeing the traditional wreath being elevated with innovative groupings including everlasting succulents, ferns, mosses, and natural elements to provide a lush organic feel all year long.
Tired of wreaths? Then why not explore everlasting wall panels, available in both rectangular or square shapes, for a modern take on the wreath. If you are seeking something a bit more whimsical, we are excited to share that the straw hat has returned. Our favourite design effect is a simple accent of everlasting lavender and a cute gingham bow.
Decorating your front porch and door is an easy way to invite spring into your home.
Add levels to your spring decoration by changing up your entryway mats, outdoor planters, and door decoration. Spring is a time for new beginnings. It is an opportunity to be playful while reconnecting with the beauty of nature. The only limitation to spring décor is your imagination.
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Bulbs can be planted in almost every type of container, providing it has good drainage. The bulbs will be planted closer together in containers than outdoors. You can combine bulbs with other plants or with other bulbs to prolong flowering enjoyment.
1
Select a pot that is not too small so that several bulbs can be planted at the same time. Cover the bottom with a layer of pot shard or clay marbles for better drainage.
2
Partially fill the pot with soil, (you can also use the marbles o stone chips), and pat down lightly. Next, press the bulbs slightly into the soil. They can almost be touching each other. Place tulip bulbs with their flat side toward the wall of the pot, so leaves will grow on the outside and flowers on the inside of the planter.
3
Put additional soil in the pot so that the tips of the bulbs disappear under the soil. Water the soil liberally to encourage rooting. It would be wise to dust with bulb Dust Fungicide.
4
Give the planted bulbs the required cooling period.
Popular Varieties |
Planting Time |
# of Weeks of Cold |
Earliest Bloom From |
Hyacinths |
09-15 / 12-1511-01 / 12-01 |
10-1211-13 |
12-1501-15 |
Tulips BlendaFlairProminenceYellow PresentArmaPrincess Irene |
10-01 / 12-0110-01 / 12-0110-01 / 12-0110-01 / 12-0110-01 / 12-0110-01 / 12-01 |
14-1513-1414-1515-1715-1715-17 |
01-1512-2501-1502-1502-1502-15 |
Daffodils |
10-01 / 12-0110-01 / 12-01 |
12-1312-1315-16 |
01-1501-1502-15 |
Special Bulbs |
10-01 / 11-0110-01 / 11-0110-01 / 11-01 |
14-1512-1314-15 |
02-0101-0502-01 |
Landscape Ontario Horticultural Trades Association represents the leading garden centres in Ontario. As one of the select garden centres which has achieved “Approved Member” status, we assure our customers receive a high level of service, a good range of quality plants and associated products, together with professional advice and information.
]]>As the snow melts away, you may be surprised to find that your once, lush green lawn is less vibrant. The accumulative effect of salt, snow, wind, and frosty weather can cause damage to both the roots and tips of your grass.
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]]>As the snow melts away, you may be surprised to find that your once, lush green lawn is less vibrant. The accumulative effect of salt, snow, wind, and frosty weather can cause damage to both the roots and tips of your grass. But that’s not all, winter may have been hiding some unexpected surprises, including mould and root damage from voles.
Lawn Burn |
Tell-Tale Sign: Brown or Yellow GrassGrass thrives in a naturally alkaline environment. However, a season of salt spray and build-up can create patches of yellow and brown grass. If left alone, these weakened areas will become prone to weeds and insects. |
TreatmentSalt not only burns the tips of the grass, but it can also seep into the soil, creating an acidic environment where grass may struggle to survive. When treating salt-impacted areas, the first goal is to neutralize the soil. This includes rinsing away any salt build-up and adding Dolomitic Lime to help rebalance the PH of the soil. Once the treatment plan is done, remove the dead patches of grass and replenish the area with nutrient-rich compost and grass seed. |
Snow Mould |
Tell-Tale Sign: Pink or Gray PatchesRemember that surprise snowfall we had in early November? Well, early and late snowfalls can result in snow mould growing on your lawn. A tell-tale sign of mould is pink or gray patches in your lawn. |
TreatmentRake the area to allow the mould to dry and loosen the grass. In severe cases, remove the dying grass and fill in the patches with nutrient-rich soil, like Garden Gallery Triple Mix, and grass seed. |
Voles |
Tell-Tale Sign: Trails of exposed dirtIf you’re noticing trails of turned-up dirt, you most likely have voles. These little rodents tend to feast on grubs and as a direct result may also end up nibbling on roots and tubers as they forage for their food. |
TreatmentReplenish the bare areas with Garden Gallery’s Triple Mix and grass seed. To help manage the voles, remove any wood chips or piles of leaves, trim any low layer of branches and mow your lawn regularly. Voles like to burrow and are attracted to areas that have a lot of vegetation and spots to hide. This clean-up process will help limit any potential hiding spots for these rodents. This walk-around will help you target and treat any damage that may have occurred over the winter. However, all lawns need care and attention after a season of nutrient deprivation and stress. These six simple steps will help get your spring lawn off to a great start. |
Raking will help remove any grass that may have died over the winter and prevent it from growing into thatch. The process will loosen up the soil, any dead/damaged grass, and remove any debris (leaves, branches) that may have been lingering since fall.
Areas in your lawn that are compacted, typically high traffic areas, will make it harder for your lawn to get the nutrients and water that it needs. Aeration will help break up the soil so that both your existing and new grass roots will have room to grow.
Spread a thin layer of compost or Garden Gallery Triple Mix over your entire lawn. This will add moisture and nutrients back into your soil. Seasonal topdressing is the key to improving the overall health of your lawn, creating an environment that grass will thrive in. As an added bonus: top dressing will also help breakdown thatch and smooth out uneven areas in your property.
Adding new grass seed to your lawn is the best way to create rich, lush turf. Garden Gallery has a full line of Elite Grass Seed, including all-purpose, shade, and sun, making it easy to choose the right seed for your area. As an added benefit, regular reseeding your lawn will help keep weeds under control as the empty spaces in your lawn will now be filled with healthy, grass.
For an extra layer of protection, add a layer of Corn Gluten to your lawn in Early Spring (the sooner the better). When applied to lawns, corn gluten can be a very effective natural pre-emergent herbicide stopping weeds from taking root. Apply the first application of corn gluten early in spring, during a short (two to three days) dry period. These dry days are necessary to make sure that the corn gluten is effective in stopping any emerging crabgrass or weeds from rooting. For best results, apply corn gluten every four to six weeks to help prevent weeds from rooting all season long.
Give your lawn a bit of a kickstart with a boost of fertilizer. Products like Garden Gallery Spring and Summer Fertilizer 22-4-10, for general application or Garden Gallery Sod Food 10-22-10 to help new seeds and sod establish strong roots.
Weeds and insects like to seek out lawn that is either dead, damaged, or weak. Following this six-step process each spring will help establish a healthy foundation for your lawn. The end result-a lawn that is green, healthy, and able to resist disease and weeds.
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]]>March 20th marks the first day of spring. This hopeful season is full of growth and new possibilities. It is a time to explore activities, breathe in the fresh air, and enjoy a little bit of sunshine.
Did you know that the name spring is all about flowers? According to the Online Etymology Dictionary , the word spring comes from the Old English Word Springan which means “to leap, burst forth, fly up, spread and grow”. It’s the perfect name for the season that marks flowers bursting from the ground, new buds on trees, and fresh starts.
As much as we want to get planting in the ground. It’s still about two months too early. So, what can you do to capture that spring feeling when snow or frost covers the ground?
It’s simple-bring spring indoors!
Are you thinking of starting a vegetable garden this year? Growing your own vegetables is a great way to get exercise, enjoy fresh flavours, explore new varieties, and save money.
Seeds should be started at least six to eight weeks before they get into the ground, which makes the end of March the perfect time for planting. To get started all you need are a few simple tools including potting soil, small pots (or a seed starting tray), and of course the seeds.
Seed starting kits, like the line of products from Jiffy, make it easy for both beginners and vegetable garden veterans to sprout their seeds indoors.
Beans, peas, sunflowers, lettuce, and pumpkin are just a few of the seeds that are the simplest to get started. However, don’t stop there. Why not add some colour to your plate with rainbow carrots, rainbow swiss chard, and an array of tomatoes and peppers? Introducing these new and innovative varieties into your garden is an inexpensive way to treat yourself to a gourmet experience.
Got Spring Fever? We get it. Spring is an opportunity to give your home a bit of a refresher. So, open those windows, listen to the birds and let’s add some spring décor into your home.
Bursts of teal, orange, and cobalt blue will beautifully brighten your home. For a quick fix: simply replace your cozy winter blankets with spring-themed throw pillows. Our favourites this year include beautiful images of hummingbirds, butterflies, and dragonflies.
Brighten up your doorway with a spring everlasting wreath. These beautiful wreaths are easy to maintain and are a great way to refresh your door year after year. Make your own or buy one that is already made, like our cherry blossoms or lavender wreath.
There are so many ways infuse your home with the feeling of spring. Change up your place settings, rotate your prints, or simply add some spring hued flowerpots to brighten up your space.
Spring is all about the flowers. Potted spring bulbs are a fun way to bring the colours of aromas of spring into your home. Bright-coloured kalanchoes and tropical hibiscuses are two other varieties that will help add that splash of spring.
Spring package kits (including bulbs, primulas, and ranunculus) are a fun way to enjoy your favourite spring bulbs early. These kits can easily be started indoors and then transplanted into your favourite outdoor urn for a burst of spring colour in your entryway.
There’s no need to wait for the snow to melt to enjoy the first hints of spring. Bright colours, newly sprouted seeds, and the aroma of spring flowers will help transform your indoor space into a spring oasis.
]]>Be sure to use a clean the vase, fill it with room-temperature water mixed with a G.G. Floral Life extender packet, which is included with your flowers. The Floral life extender is basically sugar that helps keep the bacteria count in the water low.
Re-cut the stems, every few days. Remove ¾” from the bottom of the stem, cutting the stems on an angle is the best for the flowers to continue to take up water. Be sure to use a sharp knife or floral snips/scissors to prevent squishing the stems. Also, remove any blooms or foliage that end up below the waterline in the vase.
Tip: want to keep the flower arrangement looking like the pros, tie a piece of twine or wire around the top of the stems before you remove them to re-cut, this will keep all the blooms in their place.
Last but not least – check your flowers daily, see if they need a top up on water. If you need to completely replace the water make sure to clean the vase thoroughly, add room temperature water and a new G.G. Floral life extender.
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Starting seeds indoors is a great (and inexpensive) way to fill your garden. It gives you a great opportunity to try new and different varieties of plants, as well as experiment with planting times.
The first thing you will need to do is decide what to plant. If this is your first time sowing seeds, a good plant to try is marigolds: they germinate quickly and are not too picky about their conditions. For the more experienced gardener this is the time to explore the seed racks and see what’s new.
Take the time to read the seed packets as they contain a lot of important information. The key things to look for are the planting date (often listed as how many weeks before the last frost) and if you are growing vegetables or fruits, the days to maturity.
Start Indoors: |
Plant: |
10 weeks before last frost |
Celery, eggplant, leeks, onion, peppers, impatiens, lobelia, verbena and perennials |
8 weeks before last frost |
Early head lettuce, begonia, coleus, nicotiana, petunia, salvia |
7 weeks before last frost |
Tomatoes and early basil |
6 weeks before last frost |
Early leaf lettuce, early cabbages, cauliflower, broccoli, brussels sprouts, kohlrabi, kale, and small seeded annuals. |
4 weeks before last frost |
Melon, late basil, cucumber, squash, pumpkin, large-seeded annuals, and flowering vines. |
2 weeks before last frost |
Corn, tender bulbs such as glad's, and annual vines such as morning glory |
Week of last frost |
DIRECT SEED beans, carrots cauliflower, cucumber, squashes, heat-loving flowers such as zinnias, marigold, and lavatera. Transplant tomatoes', cauliflower, squash and cucumbers. |
1-2 weeks after last frost |
DIRECT SEED lima beans, soybeans, melons and herbs such as basil, summer savory and sweet marjoram. Start second crop of kale seedlings, and reseed spinach and peas for second crop |
One of the most common mistakes made with seeds is starting them too early. While it may seem like a good idea to get a head start, your plants may become leggy or spindly, leading to weaker plants. Unless you are prepared to transplant your seedlings into larger pots, it is best to stick to the suggested timelines.
If you have the itch to get something started now, consider growing some spouts! They are a great way to enjoy some fresh, homegrown veggies during the long winter months. Try Alfalfa, Radish, wheatgrass, or a salad mix: they are easy to grow and are ready for harvest from 5-12 days.
Starting seeds indoors is a great family project! You can even make it into a fun experiment and log which seeds sprouted first, then measure them weekly throughout the season to see which plants thrive in our area.
One of the fun things about seeds is there are often many unique plants that aren’t available later as seedlings. You can inexpensively try a new variety or two, or even a new plant every year and see what works for you. Another way to try new seeds out is to see if a neighbour or family member wants to swap a few seeds of another variety and you can decide at the end of the season which you liked better.
After you have selected your seeds, you will need something to plant them in. Seeding trays are often the easiest way to sow seeds, but you can also use peat pellets which can be found at most garden centres. Make sure your tray comes with a lid as it helps to keep the seeds warm and damp during the initial growing period. If you are re-using trays be sure to give them a good wash before starting this year’s seeds.
When starting seeds indoors it is important to use a soil specifically for seeds. These mixes are lightweight and help ensure your seeds do not become waterlogged, or too dry. We recommend Pro-Mix Premium Organic Seed Starting mix. Seeds like consistent moisture, and we recommend using a misting spray bottle to keep them damp.
Once your seeds are planted (and covered) they will need good, bright light. Place them near a bright window, or you can use grow lights. As soon as your seeds show signs of germination (sprouts) remove the lid or cover to ensure the seedlings receive fresh air. It is a good idea to turn your trays every week so your plants grow straight and don’t lean towards the light. Some varieties of seeds require some extra warmth during the first week or two of germination: place them on top of your refrigerator, or you can purchase a heat mat for seedlings.
The final step for your seeds is to transplant them outdoors. Plants grown indoors need hardening off before they are planted outdoors. After the last frost date, start by setting them outside in a shady, sheltered spot, initially for half a day, then gradually leaving them out all day. Progressively move them into sunnier and windier areas to acclimatize to garden conditions.
Sowing seeds indoors is a great way to try fun new varieties, and a budget friendly way to fill the garden. Don’t just dream about your garden, start your seeds indoors and you will be enjoying it sooner than you think!
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Here are our top 10 Tips...
In this case, we use spikes or hard foam. With five flowers of equal length, we outline the circumference and the height of the arrangement. The remainder of the flowers, which should all have equal stem lengths, should be inserted in between. Fill out with leaves.
TRIANGULAR FLORAL ARRANGEMENTS
Mark the outline with three flowers, two of equal length and the one to be inserted in the middle of the arrangement, a little longer. The remainder of the flowers can now be divided within this triangle. Here, also some leaves or berries can be used to add accents.
Mark the outline with three flowers, two of equal length and the one to be inserted in the middle of the arrangement, a little longer. The remainder of the flowers can now be divided within this triangle. Here, also some leaves or berries can be used to add accents.
The first stem should be twice or three times as high as the vase. The second stem should measure two-thirds of the first, and the third stem should be one-third of that height or even lower. In the centre, a firm leaf can serve as a transition between flowers and the vase or bowl. Now, add some smaller leaves to soften the straight lines and the arrangement is complete.
Allow newly bought flowers, still in their wrappings, to drink clean, fresh water for a while.
Make sure the flowers are put into a clean vase.
You will enjoy your flowers longer if you feed them cut-flower food. Make sure you give them the right amount.
Before arranging the flowers in a vase, first cut off one inch from each stem.
Stems should never be broken off or flattened not even woody stems. Scraping off the bark is also a fallacy.
Leaves should never be covered by water. They will only make the water dirty and will shorten the lives of the flowers.
Do not forget to top up the vase regularly with clean, fresh water.
During the night, flowers will benefit from a lower thermostat setting.
Flowers can not stand direct sunlight and drafts.
Daffodils can be deadly to other flowers because they secrete a poison in the water. After trimming, leave daffodils on their own for a whole day. Do not cut them again when combining with other flowers.
Landscape Ontario Horticultural Trades Association represents the leading garden centres in Ontario. As one of the select garden centres which has achieved “Approved Member” status, we assure our customers receive a high level of service, a good range of quality plants and associated products, together with professional advice and information.
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There are, without doubt, birds in your garden now. If you wish to encourage more birds and more varieties of birds around your home, you can do so by providing a variety of trees and shrubs, particularly those that provide food in the form of fruit, berries, nuts or seeds.
If you grow Sweet Cherries, you know they have to be netted to prevent the birds from taking them. Mayday trees and Shubertís Chokecherry have fruit we do not find palatable but is enjoyed by birds. Sour Cherries that we use for pies also make a nice ornamental small tree.
Many trees have desirable fruit for birds, which we hardly notice, however the birds find with ease since the fruit is not highly coloured. Russian Olive is a good example and with its silver foliage and fragrant yellow flowers, it makes an excellent choice for gardeners.
If your garden is large enough for those tall trees, you will attract Orioles, Tanagers and the Red-eyed Vireo as they prefer the safety of the high upper canopy.
Small fruit, such as Currants, Raspberries, Blackberries and Gooseberries will certainly attract birds. Blueberries will have to be netted as they are so desirable. Among ornamental shrubs, there are many with choice fruit. The dark mature fruit of Elderberry is ravenously eaten by many songbirds, including Thrushes and Warblers. All Viburnums except the double-flowered Snowball, have berry fruit. The fruit of the High Bush Cranberry is not usually taken by birds, but can be a life-saving source of food in severe winters. Nannyberry fruit is found more palatable and is a favourite of the Brown Thrasher. Other shrubs with berries are: Oregon Grape Holly, Flowering Currant, Bush Honeysuckle, Rugosa Rose, Redleaf Rose, all Dogwoods, Serviceberry, Privet, Coralberry, Snowberry, and Autumn Olive. The fruit of the Cotoneaster and Firethorn are not usually taken by birds.
The brilliantly coloured berries of Mountain Ash are eagerly devoured by Robins, Cedar Waxwings and other birds. Many varieties and forms of Mountain Ash are available and they are highly ornamental trees. (The birds do not like the fruit of the variety ëLeonard Springer). If not eaten in the fall, they persist on the tree all winter. Their height above snow cover provides food when mid-winter sources are scarce and are also used in early spring by the first returning migrants.
Seed-eating birds such as Redpolls, Pine Siskins and Goldfinch find an abundance of seed on this attractive tree. It is particularly valuable to those birds which stay with us all winter.
The dense foliage of Spruce, Pine, Fir, Larch and Hemlock provide secure nesting sites for many birds and an ample supply of seeds from their varied cones. Cedar Waxwings love the red fruit of the Yew in the early fall.
If you can provide a wild spot in your garden for tall Grasses, Thistles, Goldenrod and Ragweed, you will add greatly to your list of bird visitors ñ Horned Lark, Meadowlark, Buntings, Bobolink and others. In a cultivated garden, ornamental grasses can be used, leaving them to stand into the winter with their supply of seeds. So too, with many annual and perennial plants, which we normally remove or cut down in the fall; if left in place, they provide abundant seed for birds in winter. For example, Sunflowers, Cosmos, Zinnias and Asters.
A climbing vine with brilliant foliage in fall, Virginia Creeper’s bountiful harvest of shiny black berries is enjoyed by many birds, including Kingbirds, Flycatchers and Bluebirds.
Hummingbirds need eight times their weight in water everyday. If your property does not include a pond or stream, providing water in a birdbath or large saucer will bring birds to your garden and keep them coming back. Sugar-water dispensers designed to attract Hummingbirds are also available.
The larger the menu you offer, the more types of birds you will attract. Try bread crumbs, dried fruit, suet, cracked corn and Sunflower seeds. Many birds will feed from an elevated tray, while some will feed only on the ground; for others, a seed encrusted ball of suet suspended from a tree is ideal.
Enticing birds to your garden with desirable fruit and seeds will help greatly in controlling insect populations, as most birds prefer a varied diet. The importance of insect control by birds can hardly be over-rated. Robins may take garden-friendly earthworms, but also feasts on Ants, Beetles, Cankerworms, Caterpillars, Cutworms, Crickets, Flies (pupae and adults), Slugs, Snails, Sowbugs, Spiders, Termites, Wireworms, and Weevils. Wood Warblers are almost 100 per cent insect eaters.
In bringing birds to your garden, you add a new dimension of interest and will be rewarded by their colour, movement and song. The trees and shrubs will enhance your garden so you benefit again.
Landscape Ontario Horticultural Trades Association represents the leading garden centres in Ontario. As one of the select garden centres which has achieved “Approved Member” status, we assure our customers receive a high level of service, a good range of quality plants and associated products, together with professional advice and information.
]]>Terrariums are the perfect way to perk up your indoor space! These mini tabletop gardens are easy to care for and maintain. All you need is a glass container, soil and a pinch of creativity!
1. SNAKE PLANTS
Snake plants, or Mother-In-Law’s Tongue are one of the most recommended plants for improving air quality in a home. What makes this plant so great for improving air quality is that it releases oxygen at night. Most plants do the exact opposite and absorb oxygen during the night. This plant also acts as a filter for toxins such as formaldehyde. The snake plant is also very cost effective and easy to obtain making it an ideal choice for your home
2. IVY - (ENGLISH IVY)
Another great plant to improve air quality is English Ivy. English Ivy is known to improve air quality by eliminating mold particles. This means that mold allergy sufferers will be able to breathe easier with the presence of an English Ivy Plant. English Ivy is also an easy to care for plant, and with minimal upkeep will make an excellent addition to the home. It is widely available and fairly inexpensive as well. One thing to note about English Ivy is that the leaves and berries can be poisonous to humans and animals if ingested, so if you have pets, it may be a plant to skip!
3. SPIDER PLANT
Spider Plants are another choice to help with airborne toxins in the home. Spider Plants can help to filter out many different toxins such as carbon monoxide and formaldehyde. Spider Plants are also very resilient, making it an easy to care for plant, and a great place for beginner plant owners to start with. Spider Plants are very easy to regrow as they flower into “spiderettes” which can be cut off and planted. This makes them another inexpensive choice to improve air quality.
4. PEACE LILY
Peace Lilies have been found to help with the reduction of many different airborne toxins. Two toxins they can help to clean are Benzene as well as Trichloroethene. Peace Lilies can also assist with keeping moisture in the air. The soil Peace Lilies grow in can also assist with absorbing airborne toxins so long as the plants are kept trimmed at the soil level, and the soil is partially exposed to the air.
5. BOSTON FERN
Another easy to care for plant that can reduce airborne toxins is Boston Ferns. Boston Ferns require little attention aside from frequent watering, making them another great option for beginner plant owners. Like Spider Plants, Boston Ferns can filter out formaldehyde, but can also help to filter out ozone in high pollution areas.
Overall, plants can be an inexpensive way to assist with airborne allergens and toxins as well as a great way to improve the look of your home. From Spider Plants, to Boston Ferns this list of plants will help you get started with the improvement of air quality in any living space! Will you incorporate any of these plants into your home?
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Winter is a busy time at the bird feeder because of the lack of food due to the cold temperatures. It’s key to keep your bird feeder topped up with bird seed from dawn until dusk so the birds have a chance to get enough energy to keep them warm through the frigid nights.
High Energy feed is best for winter like Black oil sunflower, peanut, corn and suet. Black oil sunflower is the favorite choice in the bird world.
Using a bird feeder with a roof or overhand will keep food dry and prevent it from getting snow covered.
A fun and quick feeder to make uses only a few things and makes the feathered friends extremely happy.
YOU WILL NEED:
STEP 1
Pour some bird seed into a foil tray or baking pan (keeps the bird seed off your floor)
STEP 2
Poke 2 holes on the end of each tube (later you will use the pipe cleaners to make a hanger). Spread peanut butter or shortening on the paper tube.
STEP 3
Roll the tubes in the bird seed covering the entire tube
STEP 4
Attach a pipe cleaners to make a hanger to hook on a branch.
All done! Hang it outside on a branch and now you have a simple and fun bird feeder for your feathered friends.
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Calathea's are famous for their bold and beautiful leaves. These wide leaves make them a popular choice for areas with low light.
Light is the most important element in successfully growing a houseplant. Without adequate light a plant cannot produce the food it needs to survive.
It is almost always better to give a plant more light than it needs rather than not enough. For example, the Dracaena family is generally regarded as a low-light to medium-light family of plants, but it is common to see Dracaena massangeana and Dracaena marginata, among others, growing in the direct, blazing sun of the tropics. This family of plants grows naturally in high light but it also grows naturally in lower light areas and is thus well suited for most homes and offices.
High-light plants such as Ficus benjamina and Crotons cannot be forced into lower light areas to suit a design function unless they are supplemented with proper additional electric lighting. Additional lighting may be provided in the form of spot grow bulbs, fluorescent grow tubes or various kinds of high-intensity, industrial type lighting.
A good way to determine if an area has enough light to support a given plant is to take a light reading. You can easily do this by purchasing a combination light/moisture meter available here in the garden centre.
Tropical plants will survive a wide range of temperatures, but like ourselves, tropical plants find that moderate temperatures in the range of 15 to 30 o C are ideal. Evening temperatures should generally drop about 5 o C to sustain plant vitality. Draughts, air conditioning and heating ducts usually have an adverse effect on most tropical plants.
Most plants prefer higher humidity levels than the average house can provide, but they adapt to their surroundings and normal house humidity levels are usually not a problem.
Diseases and insects are something that plant owners should be aware of but should not be cause for a great deal of concern as long as the plants are purchased from a legitimate garden centre where they can be cared for properly
More houseplants are killed by overwatering than by all other factors combined. Water requirements vary for each different type of plant. Generally, the more light a plant is exposed to, the more water it requires. Temperature, humidity, soil mix and the type of container the plant is in are all contributing factors to a plant’s need for moisture.
It is a good idea to check plants at a regularly scheduled time, but it is almost impossible to say that a particular plant will need water every week or any other time frame because all of the above factors may vary from time to time.
Moisture Meters can be a valuable tool when checking plants to see if they require water. However, they should be used as a guide only; always use your senses to determine if the Moisture Meter is working properly. Droopy plants usually indicate a need for water, but may also be a result of stress caused by overwatering.
A plant standing in a saucer or pot of water will absorb too much moisture through its root system. The plant will not have an opportunity to dry out. This will result in a plant performing poorly, even though the water given at any one time may not have been excessive.
Some fertilization of tropical plants is necessary to provide the proper nutrients to sustain overall plant health and vigor. Plants should be fed when in an inactively growing stage, which in Canada is usually from March to October. It is better to feed more often with diluted concentrations of fertilizer than giving a double dose once in a while. Never fertilize a dry plant as this can cause root burn.
Most foliage plants respond well to balanced fertilizers such as 20-20-20, while flowering plants prefer a higher concentration of phosphorous, such as 15-30-15.
Landscape Ontario Horticultural Trades Association represents the leading garden centres in Ontario. As one of the select garden centres which has achieved “Approved Member” status, we assure our customers receive a high level of service, a good range of quality plants and associated products, together with professional advice and information.
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]]>High in iron, this hardy crop likes the temperature to be under 23 degrees Celsius (75 Fahrenheit). In fact, it tends to go to seed when the weather gets too hot. So, plant broccoli early for maximum harvests (yes, the same plant can produce up to three harvests). Did you know that each harvest of broccoli looks a little different? For the first harvest, broccoli produces a large centre head. However, once cut the broccoli will continue to produce smaller side heads for several weeks.
Pro Tip: For the best flavour, harvest the broccoli before it flowers. Once the flowers bloom the broccoli can become very bitter.
Add some intrigue to your vegetable garden by growing brussel sprouts. The delicious little cabbages grow along a thick 30-inch stalk creating almost a palm tree effect, with the leaves blooming at the top. If you are adding this vegetable to your garden, be patient, it can take about 80 days until they sprouts can be harvested. However, the taste of this freshly grown produce is well worth the wait.
Pro Tip: Harvest when the sprouts become the size of marbles.
Cabbage doesn’t’ like the heat, so get this crop into the ground (or your containers) early so that you can harvest it before those hot summer days. This crop prefers temperatures that range from 7 to 24 degrees Celsius and can even tolerate brief amounts of frost. Similar to broccoli, cabbage will go to seed once temperatures exceed 80 degrees. Its compact size makes it the perfect plant for both raised beds and containers.
Pro Tip: Garden Gallery Organic Container Mix is the perfect base to give your patio vegetables a great start.
Perfect for salads, soups or just something to crunch on, celery is an ideal cold-weather crop. One of the reasons that celery continues to be a fan favourite is for its high-water content. However, to get that crunchy consistency means making sure that celery gets a lot of water. Take advantage of the rainy spring weather, by planting your celery in the ground early.
Pro Tip: Did you know that young celery tastes just as good as the larger, older stalks? That’s not all, picking the stems often will actually help increase the amount of celery that the plant produces.
Cauliflower is another cruciferous vegetable that prefers cooler temperatures. In fact, the best time to get this plant into the ground is about two to four weeks before that last spring frost. Harvest cauliflower when the head of the plant is approximately 6 to 8 inches in diameter.
Pro Tip: Although most cruciferous vegetables prefer cooler weather. Keep those frost blankets handy, and cover up your cauliflower, cabbage, broccoli, kale if frost is in the air.
Kale doesn’t mind the chillier weather, in fact, a minor frost can actually sweeten the taste of the leaves. The compact size of this superfood makes it a great container vegetable. But that’s not all, its eye-catching foliage makes kale the perfect plant to pop right into your flower garden.
Pro Tip: The secret to harvesting kale successfully is to cut the outer leaves of the plant first. This technique will allow the smaller, younger leaves (near the centre) to keep growing.
If you’re just breaking into home growing, why not start with a few containers of lettuce? The shallow root system of plants in the lettuce family makes it the perfect patio plant. Did you know that lettuce seeds can germinate in temperatures as low as 4 degrees? However, its ideal climate is between 16 to 18 degrees, which makes late April the perfect time to get lettuce into the ground.
Pro Tip: Harvest the plant as a baby green by picking the younger leaves as it grows.
If you’re thinking of adding onions into your home-grown garden, get them into the ground early. Here’s why, the tops of onions grow in the cool weather and once the weather warms up, the plant will concentrate on growing the bulbs.
Pro Tip: Yellow onion tops is a tell-tale sign that the bulbs are almost ready to be harvested. When this happens, tilt the plant horizontally so that the plant defers all of its energy to help bring that bulb to maturity. Once the tops are brown (usually a day or two later), it’s time to harvest.
This sun-loving plant is comfortable with a bit of cooler weather, but that’s only one reason to plant spuds in the spring. Potatoes are a thirsty crop so planting them during the rainy season will help get them off to a good start. Harvest potatoes when the leaves turn yellow, usually 18 to 20 weeks after planting.
Pro Tip: If you don’t have the room in a raised bed, try them in a container. Yes, patio potatoes are possible just make sure to use a large pot with lots of drainage.
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]]>Basil is an herb which originates from areas around central Africa, and Southeast Asia. Typically, one’s first thought when thinking of basil is Italy and surrounding countries, but did you know the herb was actually brought to that region in ancient times? Basil has a very distinct flavour, one which is typically hard to describe. There are different varieties of basil in an array of different flavours. Two of the more popular types are Thai basil and Sweet basil. Sweet basil has a peppery but sweet flavour, whereas Thai basil tastes more like licorice. Basil pairs well with many different foods, as its distinct flavour can taste wonderful with sweet or savoury dishes and drinks. Basil is usually paired with foods such as mozzarella cheese, eggplant, balsamic vinegar, and even strawberries.
This versatile herb is easy to grow at home, as long as you follow a few simple steps. Basil plants can be purchased from your local garden center in small pots already grown and ready to take home and use. This is generally the best option if you’re just starting out. Basil can also be planted from seeds, but this process will take longer and may be trickier for beginners.
hased from your local garden center in small pots already grown and ready to take home and use. This is generally the best option if you’re just starting out. Basil can also be planted from seeds, but this process will take longer and may be trickier for beginners. Basil requires quite a bit of sunshine, 6-8 hours per day. If the plants are being grown indoors, sun lamps will help them get the sunshine they need. It’s important to note the temperature where they are being stored as well. If they are being planted near a window they should be placed in a miniature greenhouse, protected from the cold. Even being near a window can cause wilting if it is too cold. If you choose to grow basil with seeds, they can be started indoors and transplanted to an outside garden. To grow basil from seeds, simply place them in moist soil with about an inch of soil above them. They take about a week to start germinating (sprouting). As more sprouts become visible, the basil should be spread out or planted into different containers, depending on where you wish to grow the plants. Basil can be transplanted outside once there is no longer risk of frost. They will survive very well inside as long as they are able to get adequate sunshine. Basil is an annual herb, which means you will need to plant a new crop each year.
Chives have quite a historical background, being the oldest known herb in the onion family. They were originally found in a few different; Asia, Europe, and even North America. Now it can be found all over the world. Chives have an onion-like flavour, similar to a green onion. Generally chives are used as a garnish, but can be used in cooking as well. The entire plant is edible, including the flower which is typically used in salads. The stalks taste great as a garnish on baked potatoes, potato salad, and on devilled eggs. They can also be cooked into dishes like herb rolls and in latkes. If you want chives to stay as flavourful as possible, it’s best to add them in at the end of the cooking process, or consume them raw. If exposed to too much heat while cooking, they will lose their flavour and become quite bland.
Chives are an extremely hardy plant making them an excellent choice for a beginner herb garden. They are quite easy to grow and take care of, and require very little care once they are planted.
Chives do best when they have a consistent source of sunshine, so if you are growing these herbs inside it is important they have access to sun, or an artificial source of sunshine such as a sun lamp. Chives can be also grown in partial shade. Chives can handle drought fairly well, but it is best to not plant them in dry soil. The ideal soil is one that is well dug with compost mixed in. Once planted, they can be left alone, watered only when the soil becomes dry. Chives can be grown indoors and transplanted once it gets warmer outside. If you choose to start the plants inside, regular potting soil will do just fine until they can be planted outside. You can also purchase chive plants which are already grown if you want to skip the fuss of waiting for them to grow. They do very well on their own, and they will come back every year as they are a perennial. To prepare chives for winter, all they need is to be trimmed back, and they will do the rest. Chives can be kept indoors, in planters outside on a porch or balcony, or be planted directly into a garden.
Parsley is an excellent herb, filled with lots of nutrients including vitamin C. It tastes delicious in multiple dishes as a garnish, or even as part of a main course. Originating from the central Mediterranean region, this herb has been around for centuries and has crossed oceans through trade. Parsley is a unique herb, as whether you like it or not has to do with genetics. Most people either love or hate parsley, not many are indifferent towards it. It also is unique because it is said to bring out the flavour of whatever it is paired with. Those who like the herb say it has a peppery taste. Parsley pairs wonderfully with foods like lentils and steak. It also tastes great added to pesto, or in ravioli pasta. Both the leaves, and the stem of parsley are edible; in fact, the stem has a stronger flavour than the leaves.
In Canada, parsley typically grows better indoors than in a garden, but it can be planted in either setting. Parsley is a biennial herb, which means that it will flower and produce seeds the second year it is planted and then die off. In colder climates, however sometimes it will be classified as an annual. It is dependent on the climate as to whether or not it will grow a second year. A great characteristic about parsley is that it rarely will get disease making it easier to grow, although it can still be affected by insects such as aphids. Parsley is a lush plant, which can grow up to a foot high and makes for a beautiful addition to your garden. It is typically grown from seeds, but can also be purchased as a plant ready for use. It requires partial shade or full sunlight. The soil should stay moist. Mulch can help with growth, although it is important not to cover the crown of the plant as it can put the parsley at risk of rot. The ideal soil temperature for planting dill is 70°f, or 21°c.
Originating from Eurasia, dill is a popular herb with a mild and warm flavour. Dill is quite versatile, and goes well with a multitude of different foods. If you’re looking to incorporate dill in some of your meals, it tastes great in seafood, eggs, and smoked salmon. It is also a popular ingredient in potato salads as well as other potato dishes. Of course, dill is also used to make dill pickles, so if you’re a fan of those, perhaps it’s time to try growing your own dill at home!
Dill is an annual herb, lasting only one season after planting. Dill can be grown indoors and out, and can be purchased already grown in planters. It is easy to grow, and also attracts many beneficial bugs in your garden. An interesting fact about dill is that it is a self-seeding plant; this means that it will seed itself, with seeds being carried by birds.
To plant dill in your garden you should follow a few simple steps. Firstly, dill grows best when it stays where it is planted. It is best not to transplant. Dill should be planted ¼ of an inch deep and 18 inches apart. Plants should begin to grow about 2 weeks after they are initially planted, and can be harvested once the plant has 4 or 5 leaves. Depending on how many dill plants you have, you can harvest entire stalks of dill at once. If you chose not to harvest entire stalks, it should be pinched off leaves at a time. Dill should be exposed to sun for 6 to 8 hours a day. If you want to grow dill indoors, it can be planted in 6-8” pots with drainage holes in them. Dill requires lots of sunlight, so an artificial light source may be required for your dill plant to thrive. They require at least 6 hours of sunlight or up to 12 hours of artificial light. The ideal soil temperature for your dill plants is between 60 – 70°f, or 15 – 20°c.
Last, but certainly not least, thyme is the final herb on our list! Thyme is extremely popular and is fairly versatile in its uses, with a unique flavour often described as dry, piney, and even as minty. It pairs well with a multitude of dishes, some of the more popular options being roasts and tomato sauces. It also is a popular ingredient in turkey stuffing and potato dishes, and even in desserts as it pairs well with berries! The most common type of thyme we use in cooking is English thyme, or Thymus Vulgaris. Although English thyme is the most common, there are over 50 other types, some of which are edible and others which are typically used for garnish or decoration.
Thyme can be grown indoors and out, so no matter where you live, growing it is a possibility if you have access to the right growing conditions. Thyme is hard to grow from seeds, so it is best to grow from a starter plant, or from a clipping. It can be started indoors 6 – 10 weeks before the last frost to give them a head start. If you are planning on only growing it outside, you should wait until 2 – 3 weeks before the last spring frost to plant. Soil temperature should be around 70°f or 21°c before you begin planting. Thyme plants should be watered regularly, and trimmed when they get too leggy, or long. Although thyme needs to be watered regularly, it also needs to be well ventilated, and typically will grow better if grown in a container with stones placed at the bottom to allow drainage. Thyme thrives in warm, sunny conditions.
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]]>Terrariums are the perfect way to perk up your indoor space! These mini tabletop gardens are easy to care for and maintain. All you need is a glass container, soil and a pinch of creativity!
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]]>Light is the most important element in successfully growing a houseplant. Without adequate light a plant cannot produce the food it needs to survive.
It is almost always better to give a plant more light than it needs rather than not enough. For example, the Dracaena family is generally regarded as a low-light to medium-light family of plants, but it is common to see Dracaena massangeana and Dracaena marginata, among others, growing in the direct, blazing sun of the tropics. This family of plants grows naturally in high light but it also grows naturally in lower light areas and is thus well suited for most homes and offices.
High-light plants such as Ficus benjamina and Crotons cannot be forced into lower light areas to suit a design function unless they are supplemented with proper additional electric lighting. Additional lighting may be provided in the form of spot grow bulbs, fluorescent grow tubes or various kinds of high-intensity, industrial type lighting.
A good way to determine if an area has enough light to support a given plant is to take a light reading. You can easily do this by purchasing a combination light/moisture meter available here in the garden centre.
More houseplants are killed by overwatering than by all other factors combined. Water requirements vary for each different type of plant. Generally, the more light a plant is exposed to, the more water it requires. Temperature, humidity, soil mix and the type of container the plant is in are all contributing factors to a plant’s need for moisture.
It is a good idea to check plants at a regularly scheduled time, but it is almost impossible to say that a particular plant will need water every week or any other time frame because all of the above factors may vary from time to time.
Moisture Meters can be a valuable tool when checking plants to see if they require water. However, they should be used as a guide only; always use your senses to determine if the Moisture Meter is working properly. Droopy plants usually indicate a need for water, but may also be a result of stress caused by overwatering.
A plant standing in a saucer or pot of water will absorb too much moisture through its root system. The plant will not have an opportunity to dry out. This will result in a plant performing poorly, even though the water given at any one time may not have been excessive.
Tropical plants will survive a wide range of temperatures, but like ourselves, tropical plants find that moderate temperatures in the range of 15 to 30 o C are ideal. Evening temperatures should generally drop about 5 o C to sustain plant vitality. Draughts, air conditioning and heating ducts usually have an adverse effect on most tropical plants.
Most plants prefer higher humidity levels than the average house can provide, but they adapt to their surroundings and normal house humidity levels are usually not a problem.
Some fertilization of tropical plants is necessary to provide the proper nutrients to sustain overall plant health and vigor. Plants should be fed when in an inactively growing stage, which in Canada is usually from March to October. It is better to feed more often with diluted concentrations of fertilizer than giving a double dose once in a while. Never fertilize a dry plant as this can cause root burn.
Most foliage plants respond well to balanced fertilizers such as 20-20-20, while flowering plants prefer a higher concentration of phosphorous, such as 15-30-15.
Diseases and insects are something that plant owners should be aware of but should not be cause for a great deal of concern as long as the plants are purchased from a legitimate garden centre where they can be cared for properly.
Landscape Ontario Horticultural Trades Association represents the leading garden centres in Ontario. As one of the select garden centres which has achieved “Approved Member” status, we assure our customers receive a high level of service, a good range of quality plants and associated products, together with professional advice and information.
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]]>All trees and shrubs will provide something of value to birds nesting sites, insect food, shelter from weather and predators.
There are, without doubt, birds in your garden now. If you wish to encourage more birds and more varieties of birds around your home, you can do so by providing a variety of trees and shrubs, particularly those that provide food in the form of fruit, berries, nuts or seeds.
If you grow Sweet Cherries, you know they have to be netted to prevent the birds from taking them. Mayday trees and Shubertís Chokecherry have fruit we do not find palatable but is enjoyed by birds. Sour Cherries that we use for pies also make a nice ornamental small tree.
Many trees have desirable fruit for birds, which we hardly notice, however the birds find with ease since the fruit is not highly coloured. Russian Olive is a good example and with its silver foliage and fragrant yellow flowers, it makes an excellent choice for gardeners.
If your garden is large enough for those tall trees, you will attract Orioles, Tanagers and the Red-eyed Vireo as they prefer the safety of the high upper canopy.
Small fruit, such as Currants, Raspberries, Blackberries and Gooseberries will certainly attract birds. Blueberries will have to be netted as they are so desirable. Among ornamental shrubs, there are many with choice fruit. The dark mature fruit of Elderberry is ravenously eaten by many songbirds, including Thrushes and Warblers. All Viburnums except the double-flowered Snowball, have berry fruit. The fruit of the High Bush Cranberry is not usually taken by birds, but can be a life-saving source of food in severe winters. Nannyberry fruit is found more palatable and is a favourite of the Brown Thrasher. Other shrubs with berries are: Oregon Grape Holly, Flowering Currant, Bush Honeysuckle, Rugosa Rose, Redleaf Rose, all Dogwoods, Serviceberry, Privet, Coralberry, Snowberry, and Autumn Olive. The fruit of the Cotoneaster and Firethorn are not usually taken by birds.
The brilliantly coloured berries of Mountain Ash are eagerly devoured by Robins, Cedar Waxwings and other birds. Many varieties and forms of Mountain Ash are available and they are highly ornamental trees. (The birds do not like the fruit of the variety Leonard Springer). If not eaten in the fall, they persist on the tree all winter. Their height above snow cover provides food when mid-winter sources are scarce and are also used in early spring by the first returning migrants.
Seed-eating birds such as Redpolls, Pine Siskins and Goldfinch find an abundance of seed on this attractive tree. It is particularly valuable to those birds which stay with us all winter.
The dense foliage of Spruce, Pine, Fir, Larch and Hemlock provide secure nesting sites for many birds and an ample supply of seeds from their varied cones. Cedar Waxwings love the red fruit of the Yew in the early fall.
If you can provide a wild spot in your garden for tall Grasses, Thistles, Goldenrod and Ragweed, you will add greatly to your list of bird visitors Horned Lark, Meadowlark, Butings, Bobolink and others. In a cultivated garden, ornamental grasses can be used, leaving them to stand into the winter with their supply of seeds. So too, with many annual and perennial plants, which we normally remove or cut down in the fall; if left in place, they provide abundant seed for birds in winter. For example, Sunflowers, Cosmos, Zinnias and Asters.
A climbing vine with brilliant foliage in fall, Virginia Creeper’s bountiful harvest of shiny black berries is enjoyed by many birds, including Kingbirds, Flycatchers and Bluebirds.
The preferred flower for the Hummingbird is red in colour and tubular in form. Hummingbirds prefer a massed bed as it has to visit about one thousand blooms per day to meet its requirement of sweet nectar. Next to red, hummingbirds prefer orange and pink but also visit other colours of flowers. Other summer flowers that attract are Petunias, Phlox, Snapdragon, Cleome, Sweet William, Nicotiana and Zinnias.
Favourite perennials include Gladioli, Red Hot Poker, Monarda, Bleeding Heart, Columbine and Penstemon. Vining Honeysuckles like Dropmore Scarlet and Heckrot’s Goldflame have the correct shape and colouration. Also, Morning Glory, Trumpet Vine and Scarlet Runner Bean. Flowering shrubs include Weigela, Beauty Bush, Butterfly Bush, Coralberry, Flowering Currant and Flowering Quince.
Hummingbirds need eight times their weight in water everyday. If your property does not include a pond or stream, providing water in a birdbath or large saucer will bring birds to your garden and keep them coming back. Sugar-water dispensers designed to attract Hummingbirds are also available.
The larger the menu you offer, the more types of birds you will attract. Try bread crumbs, dried fruit, suet, cracked corn and Sunflower seeds. Many birds will feed from an elevated tray, while some will feed only on the ground; for others, a seed encrusted ball of suet suspended from a tree is ideal.
Enticing birds to your garden with desirable fruit and seeds will help greatly in controlling insect populations, as most birds prefer a varied diet. The importance of insect control by birds can hardly be over-rated. Robins may take garden-friendly earthworms, but also feasts on Ants, Beetles, Cankerworms, Caterpillars, Cutworms, Crickets, Flies (puppae and adults), Slugs, Snails, Sowbugs, Spiders, Termites, Wireworms, and Weevils. Wood Warblers are almost 100 per cent insect eaters.
In bringing birds to your garden, you add a new dimension of interest and will be rewarded by their colour, movement and song. The trees and shrubs will enhance your garden so you benefit again.
Landscape Ontario Horticultural Trades Association represents the leading garden centres in Ontario. As one of the select garden centres which has achieved “Approved Member” status, we assure our customers receive a high level of service, a good range of quality plants and associated products, together with professional advice and information.
Many birds remain in Canada during the winter season. Place a few bird feeders near a window and you can enjoy the view from the comforts of your home.
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]]>Many birds remain in Canada during the winter season. Place a few bird feeders near a window and you can enjoy the view from the comforts of your home.
Winter is a busy time at the bird feeder because of the lack of food due to the cold temperatures. It’s key to keep your bird feeder topped up with bird seed from dawn until dusk so the birds have a chance to get enough energy to keep them warm through the frigid nights.
High Energy feed is best for winter like Black oil sunflower, peanut, corn and suet. Black oil sunflower is the favorite choice in the bird world.
Using a bird feeder with a roof or overhand will keep food dry and prevent it from getting snow covered.
A fun and quick feeder to make uses only a few things and makes the feathered friends extremely happy.
You will need:
Step 1
Pour some bird seed into a foil tray or baking pan (keeps the bird seed off your floor)
Step 2
Poke 2 holes on the end of each tube (later you will use the pipe cleaners to make a hanger). Spread peanut butter or shortening on the paper tube.
Step 3
Roll the tubes in the bird seed covering the entire tube.
Step 4
Attach a pipe cleaners to make a hanger to hook on a branch.
All done! Hang it outside on a branch and now you have a simple and fun bird feeder for your feathered friends.
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]]>Be sure to use a clean the vase, fill it with room-temperature water mixed with a G.G. Floral Life extender packet, which is included with your flowers. The Floral life extender is basically sugar that helps keep the bacteria count in the water low.
Re-cut the stems, every few days. Remove ¾” from the bottom of the stem, cutting the stems on an angle is the best for the flowers to continue to take up water. Be sure to use a sharp knife or floral snips/scissors to prevent squishing the stems. Also, remove any blooms or foliage that end up below the waterline in the vase.
Tip: want to keep the flower arrangement looking like the pros, tie a piece of twine or wire around the top of the stems before you remove them to re-cut, this will keep all the blooms in their place.
Last but not least – check your flowers daily, see if they need a top up on water. If you need to completely replace the water make sure to clean the vase thoroughly, add room temperature water and a new G.G. Floral life extender.
Starting seeds indoors is a great (and inexpensive) way to fill your garden. It gives you a great opportunity to try new and different varieties of plants, as well as experiment with planting times.
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Starting seeds indoors is a great (and inexpensive) way to fill your garden. It gives you a great opportunity to try new and different varieties of plants, as well as experiment with planting times.
The first thing you will need to do is decide what to plant. If this is your first time sowing seeds, a good plant to try is marigolds: they germinate quickly and are not too picky about their conditions. For the more experienced gardener this is the time to explore the seed racks and see what’s new.
Take the time to read the seed packets as they contain a lot of important information. The key things to look for are the planting date (often listed as how many weeks before the last frost) and if you are growing vegetables or fruits, the days to maturity.
Start Indoors: | Plant: |
10 weeks before last frost | Celery, eggplant, leeks, onion, peppers, impatiens, lobelia, verbena and perennials |
8 weeks before last frost | Early head lettuce, begonia, coleus, nicotiana, petunia, salvia |
7 weeks before last frost | Tomatoes and early basil |
6 weeks before last frost | Early leaf lettuce, early cabbages, cauliflower, broccoli, brussels sprouts, kohlrabi, kale, and small seeded annuals. |
4 weeks before last frost | Melon, late basil, cucumber, squash, pumpkin, large-seeded annuals, and flowering vines. |
2 weeks before last frost | Corn, tender bulbs such as glads, and annual vines such as morning glory |
Week of last frost | DIRECT SEED beans, carrots cauliflower, cucumber, squashes, heat-loving flowers such as zinnias, marigold, and lavatera. Transplant tomaotes, cauliflower, squash and cucumbers. |
1-2 weeks after last frost | DIRECT SEED lima beans, soybeans, melons and herbs such as basil, summer savory and sweet marjoram. Start second crop of kale seedlings, and reseed spinach and peas for second crop |
One of the most common mistakes made with seeds is starting them too early. While it may seem like a good idea to get a head start, your plants may become leggy or spindly, leading to weaker plants. Unless you are prepared to transplant your seedlings into larger pots, it is best to stick to the suggested timelines.
If you have the itch to get something started now, consider growing some spouts! They are a great way to enjoy some fresh, homegrown veggies during the long winter months. Try Alfalfa, Radish, wheatgrass, or a salad mix: they are easy to grow and are ready for harvest from 5-12 days.
Starting seeds indoors is a great family project! You can even make it into a fun experiment and log which seeds sprouted first, then measure them weekly throughout the season to see which plants thrive in our area.
One of the fun things about seeds is there are often many unique plants that aren’t available later as seedlings. You can inexpensively try a new variety or two, or even a new plant every year and see what works for you. Another way to try new seeds out is to see if a neighbour or family member wants to swap a few seeds of another variety and you can decide at the end of the season which you liked better.
After you have selected your seeds, you will need something to plant them in. Seeding trays are often the easiest way to sow seeds, but you can also use peat pellets which can be found at most garden centres. Make sure your tray comes with a lid as it helps to keep the seeds warm and damp during the initial growing period. If you are re-using trays be sure to give them a good wash before starting this year’s seeds.
When starting seeds indoors it is important to use a soil specifically for seeds. These mixes are lightweight and help ensure your seeds do not become waterlogged, or too dry. We recommend Pro-Mix Premium Organic Seed Starting mix. Seeds like consistent moisture, and we recommend using a misting spray bottle to keep them damp.
Once your seeds are planted (and covered) they will need good, bright light. Place them near a bright window, or you can use grow lights. As soon as your seeds show signs of germination (sprouts) remove the lid or cover to ensure the seedlings receive fresh air. It is a good idea to turn your trays every week so your plants grow straight and don’t lean towards the light. Some varieties of seeds require some extra warmth during the first week or two of germination: place them on top of your refrigerator, or you can purchase a heat mat for seedlings.
The final step for your seeds is to transplant them outdoors. Plants grown indoors need hardening off before they are planted outdoors. After the last frost date, start by setting them outside in a shady, sheltered spot, initially for half a day, then gradually leaving them out all day. Progressively move them into sunnier and windier areas to acclimatize to garden conditions.
Sowing seeds indoors is a great way to try fun new varieties, and a budget friendly way to fill the garden. Don’t just dream about your garden, start your seeds indoors and you will be enjoying it sooner than you think!
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